The Jacket – Construction Begins All the fabrics are cut and I am ready to start construction. I have re-read the pattern instructions and gone over the tailoring step from my book (Sewing for Men and Boys – Simplicity 1973) and watched the YouTube from Bias Bespoke. I made one major change to the original design and that is to have a full lining in the jacket. The Vogue design has a partial lining in the front, short lining in the back and full sleeve linings. As a result, the pattern instructions have the patch pockets attached to the jacket as the last step. With a full lining, I need to attach the pocket first. So, off to make pockets. But first, some comments on hand sewing. Hand sewing is a major component of making a tailored jacket – at least using this more or less traditional method. I found a couple of things that helped. Needles – good quality, new needles make a difference. I use John James nee...
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The Jacket – Getting Started To begin, I took the time to press the fabric, lining, interfacings and pattern pieces. Over the years, I stopped doing those initial steps – didn’t seem necessary. What I noticed was that my fabrics were easier to handle and the salvages easier to align. The pattern pieces also laid out nicely with no turned under edges or corners. So, there is something to be said for 8 th grade home economics sewing lessons. Following those long-ago lessons, I carefully measured the distance from the salvage to the straight grain line on each pattern piece. I am pretty good at eyeballing the straight grain but this time I didn’t want to be off I had forgotten how nice it is to work with good wool. It felt good to the hand and it stays in place! I had new pins from last year’s retreat which I had not used and decided to give them a try. For the wool, I used Taylor Seville Magic Pins quilting pins (regular ...
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The Jacket – Getting Started A new year and the start of a new BIG project. My husband asked for a new double-breasted blazer. I made three jackets back in the last millennium but it’s been years and a refresh seemed like a good idea. I started by looking for a new pattern but the best I could find, I already owned – Vogue 2257 American Designer – Calvin Klein from 1979. Ok, but there must be new books. Nope, the recommended book is still Simplicity Sewing for Men and Boys from 1973. I had used this as my guide with good results, so ok. In 2022, however, there are multiple YouTube videos on tailoring. The ones I like a lot and found very informative are from Bias Bespoke which is a tailoring group in New York City. They also sell everything (and I do mean everything) needed to tailor a jacket ( http://www.biasbespoke.com/ ). We found the outer fabric at Fabrications last summer – 2.5 yards of 100% wool suiting in dark gray...
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The Original Sewing & Quilt Expo November 11 to 13, 2021 Novi Michigan The sewing expo was on again this year and I was excited. Having missed it and a sewing adventure in Canada in 2020 because of Covid, I greatly anticipated a chance to be immersed in sewing. The Expo was like a retreat with the opportunity to try new techniques and hopefully reenergize my sewing. The classes and teachers did not disappoint me but the shopping was considerably less than in previous years. The major sewing and quilting machine companies were represented but there was very little fabric, notions, and other tools. The classes gave me a chance to use Juki (serger), Viking, Janome, and Bernina sewing machines. I discovered that while I am a committed Babylock user, I still like the Viking and the Janome was very similar to my Babylock. I took f...
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Quick Gifts to Sew "Quick Gifts to Sew" was the topic for discussion at the Lansing Clippers November meeting. The meeting was once again held via Zoom; however, plans are being made to hold in-person meetings next year. All of us are looking forward to that! Some of our members showed gifts they were making for Christmas. They included finger puppets, small bags with zippers and a see-through vinyl side, potato bag, pattern weights, tree decoration made from strips of fleece, and balls made from fleece for indoor play. There was a wide variety of ideas for gifts that you still have time to make before Christmas. If you missed the meeting, don’t despair. Maybe you can get an idea from the above list. If you don’t have a pattern for those items, try looking for a free pattern on the internet. There are lots of freebies out there. Start by searching for “free pattern for finger puppets” or what...
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Where Did My Desire to Sew Go? In the past 18 months, I have suffered several sewing slumps. This is rare for me. Usually, I have more ideas for projects than I have time to sew, but the desire to sew is always there. I believe this desire is fading due to the isolation caused by the Covid-19 virus. I expected the isolation from family, friends, church, shopping, and other business. I did not expect the isolation to cause my desire to sew to evaporate. In fact, I think I considered it a chance to have a lot more sewing time. I do have the time, but I don’t feel like sewing. Where did my desire go? Prior to the pandemic, I was a part of several sewing groups. I believe this is referred to as social sewing. I met with friends to sew every Wednesday, one Friday of each month, and one Saturday of each month. In addition to those meetings, I also attended the Lansing Chapter of the American Sewing G...
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2021 Lansing Clippers Retreat – Shipshewana Summer is over, fall is moving in, and the annual retreat at Shipshewana seems a distant past but it was only a month ago. After 18 months of lock-down, no meetings, not seeing friends, the chance to gather, sew, and talk was invigorating and good therapy. Like much of the summer of 2021, the weather was hot and hot! But the room was cool (sometimes a little too cool). The sewing machines were whirling, scissors were snipping, and shopping happened! At the center of our group of 14, was Roselyn who with Zen like poise created wonderful pieced blocks from tiny pieces of scrap fabric. Across the way, Bev was piecing the most precise birds with tiny beaks (both left and right facing). Judy was creating tops from one pattern with knits with varying attributes. I think there is a Chicken Little Blog in this experience with how fabric effects fit. Jo finished a great “church lady” apron and star...