New Neighborhood Group - Pattern Works

 

The Jacket – Construction Begins

All the fabrics are cut and I am ready to start construction.  I have re-read the pattern instructions and gone over the tailoring step from my book (Sewing for Men and Boys – Simplicity 1973) and watched the YouTube from Bias Bespoke.  I made one major change to the original design and that is to have a full lining in the jacket.  The Vogue design has a partial lining in the front, short lining in the back and full sleeve linings.  As a result, the pattern instructions have the patch pockets attached to the jacket as the last step.  With a full lining, I need to attach the pocket first.  So, off to make pockets.

But first, some comments on hand sewing.  Hand sewing is a major component of making a tailored jacket – at least using this more or less traditional method.  I found a couple of things that helped.  Needles – good quality, new needles make a difference.  I use John James needles.  For the catch stitches and slip stitches, I used a quilting/between needle size 6 (1 ¼ inches long).  I tried a larger needle but the length made it harder to create the fine slip stitches and catch stitches.  For the basting stitches, I use a Milliners needle, size 6 (1 7/8 inches long).  The Milliners needle is slightly thicker and has a larger eye.  The basting cotton is thicker than regular sewing thread and the larger eye made for easiest needle threading.  The basting thread slipped through the fabric with ease.  I used regular sewing thread for the catch and slip stitches.  It worked well when slip stitching the lining to the outer fabric.  But the sewing thread tended to catch when I was applying the interfacing to the pocket.  The interfacing canvas is courser and the thread did not always want to slip through.  My solution – Sewer’s Aid.  I put a tiny drop on the end of my hand needle and then wiped it down the length of my thread using my fingers.  That gave the needle and thread just enough slipperiness to slide through the canvas interfacing.

As for thread, I bought 3 spools of Gutermann 100% polyester sewing thread.  I have the bad habit of simply pulling thread through the sewing machine tensions and needle when I need some for-hand sewing.  I know, it’s not great for the machine and it does tend to make the thread twist up on itself.  Since I have three spools, one is on the machine, one is for hand sewing, and one is for backup.  For basting, I am using TORRE 100% Cotton Basting Thread. 

I changed the needle on my sewing machine.  A new project deserves a new needle.  Size 80 (12) Inspira titanium universal needle seems to work well.  I will probably switch to a Size 70 when I get to the lining.

Now to make the pockets.  Patch pockets seem pretty easy – a square of fabric, turn some seams and you are done.  These jacket pockets are a little more involved.  I have the pocket and the lining but in reading about making the pockets, I realized I need to interface them.  First step was to make an interfacing pattern.  I tried using the lining pattern piece but because of the top facing on the pocket, the interfacing cut with the lining pattern did not reach all the way to the fold line.  So, plan B, I traced the pocket pattern without the facing or seam allowances.  The interfacing fit perfectly within the lines of the pocket. 

To keep the interfacing in place, I used a catch-stitch all the way around.  This attaches the interfacing to the outer fabric lightly at the seam lines but there is no extra bulk in the seams.  Next, I sewed the lining to the top of the pocket.  The seam allowances were then pressed over, all the way around the pocket.  I had trouble getting the curved corners correct and after some struggle, I made a template out of light weight cardboard.  Using the template, I achieved a ”good enough” curve to the corners.

The lining is pinned over the outer fabric just inside the pocket edge.  After pinning, I basted the edges together so I could check the look.  All looked ok.  The next to final step was to slip stitch (yes, by hand) the lining to the pocket and then finally to press them well – lots of steam (completed pocket – Picture 1).

The pockets are made and need to be attached to the jacket front.  First, there was some prep work to do.  I transferred the major “landmarks” – roll line and center front – to the wrong side of the outer fabric using a wax-based tailor’s chalk which disappears when ironed.  I also tailor tacked the darts and placement points for the pockets.  The chalk marks will disappear the first time I press the jacket, so I took the time to thread trace the roll lines, center fronts, and placement lines for the pockets (thread tracing – Picture 2).

This jacket does not have side seams, as such but rather a dart running from the armhole to inside the pocket placement.  I made the darts and instead of using my very favorite auto thread cutter, I pulled up the thread tails.  I did this again when I attached the pockets so that I would not get those little whiskers that the thread cutter leaves.  

Now it is time to attach the pockets.  Using the thread traced placement line let me position the pockets exactly on the first try.  Both pockets were the same distances from the bottom and the sides of the jacket without any fuss.  A few seconds of thread tracing eliminate many minutes of fussing over placement.  I basted the pockets in place.  Check all the measurements.  Now it’s time to edge stitch the pockets in place.  Some references indicated the pockets should be slip stitched by hand.  I don’t think that is strong enough for a working pocket.  I used my edge stitch/stitch-in-the-ditch foot; set the stitch length to 3.0mm and the needle position to 3.0mm left of the center position.  That gave a seam very close to the edge but with enough fabric to not tear out.  I back stitched at the top corners for reinforcement and then pulled the thread tails to the wrong side (finished pocket – Picture 3).

My next post will follow my progress in creating the interior support structure for the jacket. 

*This is Sandy Herman's third article in a series about making a jacket for her husband.