Fitting a Pattern for a Bodice or Top - Choose a Pattern and a Size

The biggest determent to sewing clothes for the most part is getting a pattern to fit.  If we could be sure  a garment would fit when finished, most of us would be happy to sew!  However, many times after we finish a garment, we are disappointed because it does not fit well. 

Fitting is a process that requires practice.  Don’t just take a quick glance at the back of the pattern envelope and start cutting your fabric.  Be prepared to spend some time researching fitting and trying techniques to learn which ones work for you.  Your goal is to create a well-fitting garment and careful preparation will ensure that goal will be met! 

Start by taking your measurements and recording them.  You will need to know them every time you use a different pattern.  The essential measurements you need for a top are bust, high bust, waist and hip.  In order to get a pattern to fit you, you have to compare your measurements to the pattern’s.  When you know the difference between the two, you can alter the pattern to fit you.

After you know your measurements, pick a size to begin your project.  The back of the pattern envelope will not show a “high bust” measurement.  It will give only the bust, waist, and hip size.  In order for the top to fit you well, it must fit at the shoulders.  The top hangs on the body from the shoulders, so it is imperative that you have a good fit at the beginning of the garment – the shoulders.  Most patternmakers increase the width of the shoulders as they increase the size of the bust.  However, that is not the way real life works.  You can have a full bust without having exceptionally wide shoulders.  Use your high bust measurement to choose your size.  That will give you a better fit at the shoulders.  The “high bust” measurement is taken above the bust, under the arms and across the back.  Find the bust size on the pattern envelope that is closest to your high bust measurement.  Choose that size for your top.  You can enlarge the bust later by doing a full bust adjustment before you cut your fabric.

Obviously, in order to get a garment on and off and be able to move comfortably, a garment must be larger than your measurements.  That extra room is called “ease”.  Ease is the difference between your measurements and the pattern’s.  Most patterns will show the finished dimensions of each area of the pattern.  If not, you should measure the pattern pieces for yourself.   Measure across both the front and back pieces of the garment at the bust, waist and hips from seamline to seamline.  Compare those figures to your body’s actual measurements.  Decide if the pattern has enough ease to allow you to be comfortable.  If you need to make the pattern larger or smaller you can do that before cutting your fabric.

One of the reasons a pattern may not fit you without alterations is most patterns are drafted for women who wear “B” cup bra sizes.  If you are not a B cup size, you will probably need to alter the bust on your pattern.  Some patternmakers will include separate fronts for C, D and DD cup sizes.   Many of the independent pattern companies now include those sizes in their patterns.  If you have not tried any of these companies, you can locate them by searching on the internet for “independent pattern companies”.

Do some research before you begin.  There are many excellent books on fitting.  Three of those are Fit for Real People by Pati Palmer and Marta Alto, The Palmer/Pletsch Complete Guide to Fitting by Pati Palmer and Marta Alto and The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting by Sarah Veblen. 

Would you like to see more articles on fitting?  If so, stay tuned.  We will try to address more fitting tips in future postings.

Written by Judy Huhn, member of the Lansing Clippers and Pattern Works Neighborhood Group